Viscose is a widely used textile fiber in fashion and home furnishings, often marketed as a more sustainable alternative to synthetic fabrics. But is viscose truly eco-friendly, or is it just another greenwashing tactic? In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about viscose—its origins, production process, environmental impact, and sustainable alternatives.

What is Viscose?
Viscose, also known as rayon, is a semi-synthetic fiber derived from natural sources like wood pulp. It is commonly used in the fashion industry as a silk substitute due to its smooth, drapey texture. The fabric is lightweight, breathable, and highly absorbent, making it ideal for summer dresses, blouses, activewear, and even home textiles like upholstery and bedding.
Common Uses of Viscose
Clothing (dresses, shirts, skirts, suits, and sportswear)
Linings for jackets and coats
Home textiles (curtains, carpets, and bedding)
Industrial applications (wipes, tire cords, and medical bandages)
A Brief History of Viscose
Viscose has European origins dating back to the late 19th century. French scientist Hilaire de Chardonnet developed the first version of artificial silk but faced issues due to its high flammability. In 1892, British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle perfected the viscose process and patented it, leading to commercial production by 1905. Since then, viscose has evolved into a globally significant textile material.
How is Viscose Made?
Viscose is produced through a chemically intensive process that converts wood pulp into fiber. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown:
Wood Pulp Extraction – Trees like eucalyptus, beech, and pine are harvested for their cellulose fibers.
Chemical Treatment – The wood pulp is dissolved in sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) to create alkali cellulose.
Aging & Processing – The alkali cellulose is treated with carbon disulfide, forming a viscous liquid known as "viscose."
Spinning into Fibers – The viscous solution is forced through spinnerets into an acid bath, where it solidifies into fibers.
Finishing & Weaving – The fibers are washed, bleached, and woven into textiles.
A variant of viscose is bamboo viscose, which follows the same chemical process but starts with bamboo pulp instead of wood.
Is Viscose Sustainable?
The Two Major Concerns with Viscose
1. Deforestation & Resource Depletion
Over 200 million trees are logged annually for cellulose-based fabrics, according to Canopy Planet.
Studies indicate that 30% of viscose fiber comes from endangered and ancient forests, leading to habitat destruction and biodiversity loss.
2. Chemical Pollution & Toxicity
The traditional viscose process releases harmful chemicals like carbon disulfide, which has been linked to coronary heart disease, birth defects, and neurological damage in factory workers and surrounding communities.
In 2017, a Changing Markets Foundation investigation connected major fashion brands like Zara, H&M, and Marks & Spencer to highly polluting viscose factories in China, India, and Indonesia.
Eco-Friendly Alternatives to Conventional Viscose
1. Lenzing ECOVERO™
Uses FSC-certified wood and has 50% lower emissions and water usage than standard viscose.
2. TENCEL™ Lyocell & Modal
Manufactured with a closed-loop process that recycles over 99% of solvents.
3. Recycled & Upcycled Viscose
Circulose® and Infinna™ use pre- and post-consumer textile waste instead of virgin wood pulp.
4. New Generation Fibers
Eastman Naia™ Renew: Made with recycled acetic acid and certified wood pulp.
Orange Fiber: Derived from waste orange peel, providing a truly circular textile solution.
What Can Consumers Do?
If you want to shop more sustainably, consider these steps:
Check for Certifications – Look for FSC, OEKO-TEX, or GRS (Global Recycled Standard) labels.
Support Ethical Brands – Choose brands that prioritize eco-friendly fabrics like TENCEL™, ECOVERO™, or recycled viscose.
Buy Less, Buy Better – Reduce textile waste by investing in high-quality, timeless pieces.
Opt for Second-Hand – Shopping vintage or thrifted items reduces demand for new textile production.
My Take on Viscose
Viscose is a versatile and affordable fabric, but its environmental impact depends largely on how it is produced. While traditional viscose production is linked to deforestation and pollution, new innovations like ECOVERO™, TENCEL™, and recycled viscose offer more responsible alternatives. By making informed choices, consumers can drive demand for more sustainable fabrics and contribute to a greener fashion industry.
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References
Canopy Planet. (2023). "The Hot Button Report: Fashion’s Forest Impact."
Changing Markets Foundation. (2017). "Dirty Fashion: How Pollution in the Global Viscose Industry is Linked to Fast Fashion Brands."
Lenzing AG. (2023). "ECOVERO™: The Most Environmentally Responsible Viscose."
Textile Exchange. (2024). "The Future of Sustainable Fibers: Viscose, Lyocell, and Modal."
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). (2023). "Sustainable Forestry and Its Role in the Textile Industry."
OEKO-TEX®. (2024). "Non-Toxic Dyeing and Chemical Safety in Textile Production."
Eastman Naia™. (2023). "Advancements in Circular Textiles and Eco-Friendly Fiber Innovation."
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